Apollo’s Praise is the project of Julia Rose Hoyle and Kelby James Russell, two Finger Lakes lifers who have poured a lot of heart, hard work and serious winemaking chops into Lahoma Vineyard. Kelby built a following at Red Newt, Julia directs winemaking at Hosmer, and together they’ve turned Apollo’s Praise into one of the most exciting new names in New York wine.

This Cabernet Franc comes from Lahoma Vineyard on Seneca Lake’s west side, a site Kelby knew long before he and Julia took it on themselves. It’s very Finger Lakes in the best possible way: bright red fruit, cranberry, raspberry, violet, pepper, dried herbs and a little savoury snap. Fresh and lifted, but not skinny; structured, but not stern. Poured blind, this is an easy ringer for Loire Valley.

Proudly New York: energetic, fragrant, a little wild around the edges, and absolutely made for the dinner table. Roast chicken, pork chops, lentils, mushrooms, sausages, burgers, pizza. Basically: food, friends, happiness.